Robin Shepard
The Great Dane is the dean of our local brewpubs. It opened in 1994 and was the first Madison brewpub of the current craft beer movement. Its business has flourished, with four Madison locations and one in Wausau. Current annual barrelage figures from the U.S. Brewers Association put the Great Dane at number seven nationally among brewpubs in amount of beer produced. So, it’s probably not surprising to fans of the Great Dane to see it venturing into canned beer production. It recently signed a distribution deal with Wirtz Beverage Group to introduce select Great Dane beers throughout Wisconsin by early fall. One of the first beers in 12-ounce cans is Hopsconsin, a medium-bodied red ale that features a solid Wisconsin pedigree with all locally grown hops.
What is it? Hopsconsin Red Ale from Great Dane Pub and Brewery.
Style: The Great Dane calls Hopsconsin a double red ale. The style is medium- to full-bodied, with deep amber to dark reddish-copper color. It’s a style that may have strong hop character in aroma and bitterness, yet it should have a component of rich maltiness for balance. Some have a spicy warm complexity from the blend of hops and malts. They’re sometimes confused with imperial red ales, IPAs and West Coast pale ales; however, double reds are not as assertive in their bitterness. Up until this year, the Brewers Association considered double and imperial red ales as one style. More recent guidelines now separate them, and the double red ale is more like a mild pale ale with reddish coloring. Double reds commonly range from 6% to 8% ABV and 45-80 IBUs.
Background: Hopsconsin is an homage to the resurgence in Wisconsin-grown hops. “We want to support the local hop industry,” says Great Dane co-owner and brewmaster Rob LoBreglio, “and since hoppy beers are so popular, we wanted one in our initial canned offerings.” Hopsconsin is made entirely with Wisconsin-grown hops that include Nugget, Chinook and Cascade, all from fields near Cottage Grove.
The recipe for Hopsconsin evolved at the Great Dane over several years. One of the earliest versions was made in 2010 at the downtown location by brewers Nate Zukas and Michael Fay. That beer checked in at over 9% ABV and was initially intended to be a one-off. However, a committed fan base kept calling for it to return, and it did for a few more brews. Also, an imperial red was among the Great Dane’s bomber bottles known as the “Unleashed” series back in 2012. That beer was made at the brewpub’s Wausau location, and it topped out at 12.4% and 80 IBUs.
After much discussion among all of the Great Dane brewers and Wirtz officials, Hopsconsin was recast for the current canned market to be more sessionable and to appeal to a wider range of consumers. Most of the major recipe tweaking came in the past year in test batches at the Great Dane-Hilldale. This new Hopsconsin finishes at 5.9% ABV and around 40 IBUs.
Hopsconsin, along with the Great Dane’s German pilsner, are the first two beers to appear in six-packs of 12-ounce cans. They can be found now for sale at the local brewpubs. Both beers are being made and canned at the brewpub’s Hilldale location.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A modest, light, floral-herbal hoppiness.
Appearance: Copper-colored with an reddish-orange tint. A medium soft to bubbly head.
Texture: Medium-bodied with roundness.
Taste: The caramel maltiness is upfront. The more herbal Nugget hops seem to arrive first, then it becomes more crisp with a light spicy-complexity in the overall flavor.
Finish/Aftertaste: A flavorful ending that is balanced with enough hops to give it a spicy, lightly dry, finish that doesn’t linger or stain the palate.
Glassware: The Willi Becher, with its inward taper near the lip, is great to focus the hops under the nose and still show-off the beer’s reddish-copper color. While I prefer it from a glass, drinking it from the can doesn’t really change the experience much. Aa koozie will help keep the beer cool, which sharpens the hops.
Pairs well with: This beer should be a big hit for fall football tailgating; it’s flavorful and well balanced, with enough bitterness to go well with burgers and brats. I also like it as a companion for mildly spicy pizza.
The Verdict: Hopsconsin is a flavorful red ale with balance and body, hops that lend some sharpness, and modestly spicy complexity. It’s not anywhere near the level of an IPA or even a robust pale ale, just a pleasant and easy-drinking beer with great tailgating potential.
